All Saints

I was late to work today because I got caught up in (what I thought was a new) boutqiue called All Saints, at 49, rue Etienne Marcel. I was wandering down towards the Louvre after having paid a visit to a newish concept store called Hotel Particular. I had read a couple of reviews of this swank fashion outlet but was not wholly impressed by the selection, more impressed by seemingly friendly staff. Hotel Particular stocks high end threads such as Gaspard Yurkiervich, Vivienne Westwood and Jean Charles Catelbajac. It is men's and women's and very unisex at times as two items I was looking at were apparently for men. The store itself is lovely, boudoir meets hotel costes, sort of. It was easy to walk out empty handed. It's not my scene but I do appreciate the attempt to do something different in Paris.

So back to All Saint's, which I stumbled into, as it is sort of tucked back on a corner right near Place de Victoires. The store in fact has been around for a year, and talk is for a new store in the Marais soon. You enter into a huge, darkened space full of distressed metal and wood furnishings, everything in muted tones of beige, gray, black, navy and cream. The lighting is low, not clublike low which can be anoying, but dull, requiring concentrated focus to get what is happening. I was skeptical at first and not even in a shopping mood when all of a sudden, I wanted ten things. The cuts are, generally speaking, deconstructed but with form/shape. A few jackets that reminded me of Vivienne Westwood, with the gathered necklines and diagonal cuts, but prices are quite reasonable. New approaches to cardigan sweaters that reminded me of the Danish designers Best Behavior, draped around the body to be worn open or wrapped closed, layered tunic like dresses, great options for winter wool coats. Prices seemed to range between 80€-€400 depending on the item.
Everyone is probably in the know about this place, but if you are not, go check it out. www.allsaints.com

So Ethic

Over the weekend I went to the Pret a Porter salon for emerging fashion designers. It was an enormous affair at the Porte de Versailles, with over 3 vast floors of fashion...It was too much for me to take in, so one of the sections I focused on was the 'So Ethic,' salon that brought together a range of designers working with fashion and production in an eco-friendly way. Range being a key word in that last sentence. Items ranged from recycled messenger bags made out of tires to the 'beige cotton t-shirt' crowd which I sum up as the neutral colored, simple cut t-shirts, shorts and sweaters, that oozes eco almost to a fault, to higher end designers such as the Swede, Camilla Norrback. It was interesting to talk to some of the vendors there, particularly about this discrepancy of "Eco-chic." It seems a shame that so many talented designers who have decided to use non-toxic dyes, organic cotton, and other such methods in their clothing are lumped together with less design conscious and more just "eco." Though it is important to point out their methods of production, many of these people are true 'designers' first and eco in approach. Though they may benefit from this trend now, in the future, it could be counter-productive if they become only seen as Eco-labels. It's best, in my mind to promote the great talent and have the bonus of it being produced cleanly. This might encourage more people to embrace these relatively easy methods of production--and avoid any stigma that could hurt the strong talent of the clothing. "So Ethic' is a great start but maybe next year there could be two salons, So Ethic for those messenger bags and baby bibs, and 'Design Conscious,' (or something) for those higher end labels. Some of these to take a look at are...Camilla Norrback, elegant, smart, sophisticated (www.camillanorrback.com); Anardo & Skyum, Danish design mixed with Peruvian flair (www.anardo-skyum.com); Amana-Central St. Martin's grads make sophisticated clothing handmade in a women's cooperative in Morocco; and Laurence Chauvin-Bathard--African fabrics meet classic dress and bag designs all the better for both.

Liz Saintsing

I found Liz Saintsing's website through some internet-desgin related searching and was immediately drawn to her work. Based in San Francisco, Liz Saintsing is an artist, (she studied printmaking), who finds old vintage purses, gloves, belts and various textiles which she brings back to life through her printed designs of birds, animals and other nature imagery which are hand-silkscreened onto the objects. www.lizsaintsing.com

The results are one of a kind. The old, funky shapes of vintage bags have a fresh, contemporary feel, yet the images don't jar with/or take away from the vintage quality. In many respects they seem to fit naturally, as if they were originally a part of the object. The gloves are a personal favorite. Her work sells at various locations around the USA and online.

Recycled Leather

Speaking of recycled materials, ever wonder who buys, or better yet, where do all of those puffy, patchwork, or wide collared leather jackets that line the walls of most salvation army stores and vintage boutiques end up? On opposite sides of the globe, a young designer and one design team are creating super hip handbags from just this, old leather jackets.

Representing the west coast, from Vancouver, Canada, is artist and designer Ashley Watson. Watson, who studied fine art at Nova Scotia College of Art & Design, uses pieces of leather jackets including pockets, creases, studs, and seams to create each unique purse or wallet. Having both a background in art and an interest in using materials that might be responsible to the environment, she started playing around with used leather in 2005 and today creates a spring and fall line of accessories, each piece one of a kind. Earthier tones such as brown, black and grays dominate by the very nature of material, but there are pieces made, thanks to the 1980s no doubt, in royal blue and red. Her large bags are slouchy but sleek, boho-chic as it were, resembling that all-to-famous Balenciaga phenomena, but cooler. She sells in stores across the USA and Canada, and hopefully soon in Europe. Check it out: www.ashleywatson.net

Across a lot of land and the Atlantic Ocean is Paris based, Matèries à réflexion, a design collaboration that is comprised of Laetitia Azpiroz, a native Parisian who studied art and fashion, and Cyrille Raillet, an artist who has traveled extensively, living in New York and Belgium among other places before settling in Paris, where he met Laetitia. She started Matières à Réflexion in 2002, with a line of women’s bags and accessories and in 2006 they launched a collection of men’s bags, called MAR (Urban Bags). Like Ashley Watson, each piece is unique. Items are made from individual leather jackets and can be made to order with a coat that you specifically bring into the store. I learned recently about them because of a comment on my blog about Aesa Jewelry, (thanks!) and I hope to get over to visit their boutique in person. I can’t believe I have not seen it earlier! The boutique is located at 19, rue Poitu or check it out online, www.matieresareflexion.com

Interview with Barbara Kurdziel, Plagg Paris

This is the first in a series of interviews I hope to do with designers, boutique owners and other interesting characters here in Paris or elsewhere around the globe.

Barbara Kurdziel at Plagg is a real inspiration for me and my future fantasies of opening up my own space. After my initial visit with this store as I mentioned before, I became semi-obsessed with tracking other designers from Scandinavia. On Friday of last week we met in her boutique and had a fun and fruitful dialogue about the boutique and her vision.

Deux Frontières: When did you open the boutique?
Barbara Kurdziel: August 2006-- so it’s been a year and a half already.

DF: Are all of the designers in the boutique Scandinavian?
BK: Yes. They come from Denmark, Sweden and Finland, and there is a Japanese and Norweigan design team who live in London.

DF: How did you get interested in Scandinavian fashion and design and what is it that particularly attracts you to it?
BK: Although I am Polish by birth my parents moved to Sweden when I was a child. I grew up in the city of Malmö and so the influence of Scandinavian culture and design has always been a part of my life. I have friends who are designers and I like the style of Scandinavia so it was a natural choice to focus on this for the boutique. Paris has fantastic style with a culture very steeped in fashion, but I found that a lot of the stores had a similar look. I felt that there would be a need and an interest in presenting something new and a bit different. Of course there are risks involved with this and it takes time for some people to get familiar and comfortable with some of the designers that I show.

DF: Tell me how you ended up in Paris.
BK: I had traveled a lot in France and studied in Grenoble for a time. I moved to Paris about eight years ago and took a job with H&M but after a awhile I decided to leave and start the boutique. I love Paris and consider this to be home now though I regularly go back to Sweden to visit for family and work.

DF: In your opinion, do you think there is a particular style or look with Scandinavian fashion design?
BK: Yes, I do. I think there is a different approach to fashion there, part of which is rooted in the climate and land. It is a sensible and functional approach combined with an eccentric, creative spirit. I think there is maybe more of an open spirit there. It is not too serious. The history of design, art, and fashion is more recent and fresh and so there are less pressures, traditions and references, which allows a freedom in which designers can create.

DF: In my opinion you work like an art curator here. There is a very creative sensibility to the designers you have selected and they way things work together. Do you rotate some designers while continuing to work with others long term? Tell me about some of the designers on view here now.
BK: Yes. There are some designers I have worked with since the beginning and will continue to work with, such as Ivana Helsinki and Best Behavior. Ivana Helsinki is Finnish (lives in Helsinki), and works both as a fashion designer, visual artist and performer. She has been working for many years but continues to produce on a smaller scale, which she seems to prefer. There is a strong visual and artistic influence which comes across in her designs. Best Behavior are from Denmark. They are a growing company and I am working as their agent here in Paris to get them in other boutiques. Another longer-term designer I plan to work with is Swedish designer Camilla Norback whose label, ecoluxury, combines just that: a sensible approach to materials and process of fabrication with sophisticated, elegant designs. Some other designers I have in stock for the Autumn/Winter 2007 line include Izaak (Denmark), Eluise (Denmark), Dagmar (Sweden), and Gudrun & Gudrun from the Faroe Islands (see earlier blog).

DF: Where/how do you do your research and how do you come to a decision to present someone’s line in the boutique?
BK: Because I work basically seven days of the week right now it is difficult to get out and see things, but I attend some fashion shows when I can. I make lots of store and designer/atelier visits when I am traveling in Sweden and Denmark-particularly Denmark which has a very strong fashion scene right now. My friends who are still living in Scandinavia will send me information and tell me about people to look out for. I like to have relationships with the designers I work with. Also of course I think of my clients- what they might be interested in and what their needs are and then I will make decisions based on this.

DF: For the boutique, was it not even a question to seek out a space in the Marais? And would you consider doing a boutique online?

BK: It wasn’t only the Marais where I was interested in having a boutique. I really considered the area of Canal St. Martin in the 10th, but this beautiful space was available (amazing garden included), and the foot traffic and attention towards rue Charlot confirmed the choice to settle here. As for an online boutique, perhaps in the future but no plans as yet.

For more information submit a comment or see these links below:
www.plagg.com
www.ivanahelsinki.com
www.camillanorrback.com
www.eluise.dk
www.izaak.dk
www.bestbehavior.dk
www.houseofdagmar.se

Rue Charlot

Five Independent Designers: Rue Charlot- From top to bottom
You know that the Marais is filled with too many great looking boutiques, so here is a list to narrow in on some unique, chic, younger designers giving it a go on their own…

Emilie Casiez is a young, Parisian designer and artist whose intimate boutique features simple items such as t-shirts and loose fitting off-the shoulder sweaters with black printed designs of people, buildings, swirls of clouds or stars that she has originally drawn herself. They are kind of cutesy, almost Japanese-esque, making it no surprise she sells in several stores there. She also designs casual but sexy, strappy dresses and shirts. There is also a line for men, of t-shirts, tops and sweaters. She tweaks certain classic styles to make them hipper, funkier and more original. www.emiliecasiez.com/
57, rue Charlot.


Vincent Jalbert and Yves Andrieux are fashion designers and stylists who have a small boutique specializing in transforming old fabrics, primarily former military uniforms in wool and linen into beautifully tailored jackets, skirts and pants, for men and women, as well as bags and pillows. The fabrics take on their semi worn texture but they are in perfect condition and flatter the couture-like designs that come mainly in muted tones of brown, blues and greens. Military-chic could be appropriate, but its not a hard look rather the cuts are quite feminine for the women and classic for men. They also source other vintage fabrics, including plaids and patterns. The prices are somewhat expensive but you know that they will last a long time in your closet because the fabrics are so solid and they are very well structured.
55, rue Charlot

Pauline Pin, www.paulinepin.com is a great source for bags. As we all know there is a huge purse frenzy around the world right now, but most of these seem to run upwards of $500. It’s kind of insane and a bit annoying for some of us on a milder budget, but even if you aren’t counting dimes, you’ll want to check out Pauline Pin. Her handmade, unique designs are all made in Paris. Leather is a prime material for the sleek clutches, mid-sized, semi-slouchy shoulder bags and weekend totes. Colors range from standard shades of black, dark green and red as well as metallic gold, silver and bronze. Also available are hand printed fabrics with stripes or flowers, some with a waxed coating to make them waterproof, an excellent concept not only for travel but for the frequent rainy day. The boutique also features handmade jewelry from designer Diane de Navacelle. 51, rue Charlot

Now that you have loaded up on purses and clothes, the only thing missing is of course, the shoes. Check out Cindy Glass. Cindy Glass is a fun, quirky, sexy shoe designer who recently opened up a boutique in Paris. Other outlets include Lebanon and the UK. A majority of the shoes take a form similar to the classic pump with a heel not too high so that you can walk comfortably, but this is where the traditional ends. The fabrics and colors make the shoes very one of a kind. The new collection features tartan plaids, cut-out hearts, polka dots, images of pin-up girls. In addition, there is a nice selection of knee-high boots in leather, some with a leg-warmer like look around the calves, or cream colored patented leather. Also on sale are a small selection of purses and t-shirts. The online boutique will be opening in January 2008 if you can’t make up your mind at the moment. www.cindyglass.net.
47, rue Charlot


Dominique Picquier is a boutique specializing in hand printed textiles made in France, in a tradition that comes from Lyon. The mostly cotton, linen and silk based fabrics have names such as Ginko, Vanilla (the plant), Marguerite (French for Daisy). They are beautiful nature-inspired patterns and abstractions of leaves, flowers, branches and rocks in a variety of soft palette colors. At the store or online, www.dominiquepicquier.com, you can buy lengths of fabric, order coverings for furniture, or any of their fabulous accessories which include wallets, purses, both clutch and with handles and sturdier tote bags which are great for travel. www.dominiquepicquier.com
10, rue Charlot

Wooly Wooly

After my recent discovery of Scandinavian fashion design at Plagg boutique in the Marais, I was doing a little Internet surfing and came across the site of Gudrun & Gudrun, www.gudrunoggudrun.com Set on the remote Faroe Islands, which are located in the far North Atlantic Ocean between Norway and Iceland, Gudrun & Gudrun is a knit based design company owned and operated by two Faroese women, Gu∂run Ludvig and Gu∂run Rógvadótti. These two innovative women create designs that are inspired by the myth and history of these misty lands as well as a dedication to its traditional knitting techniques and materials. But don’t imagine those bulky, cable knit sweaters, rather Gudrun & Gudrun’s Fall 2007 line showed sexy, sleek, totally contemporary styles that look good on the streets of Paris or New York, while always maintaining an interest in serving their local clientele.

An island that boasts more sheep then humans, knitting was and remains a fundamental and practical method of keeping warm. As their website explains, when the Vikings came to the Faroe Islands a thousand years ago, sheep were set free to roam the lands and have been there ever since adapting to the rough terrain and weather. Obviously there is a huge respect for the sheep and the women of Gudrun & Gudrun have developed their products with a sustainable approach to this history. Skins and wool are taken from the sheep farms that are for food production, and they also developed a fish leather from fish skins for a line of jewelry- the fish skins also being a waste product in the fishing industry. The wool used in the clothing is either untreated or colored with natural dyes.

As the demand increased for their original designs, the women expanded production levels by employing women from Jordan, a country that has a long-standing tradition with knitting as well. They state on their website that they are proud to know every knitter by name and that this is an essential component to their work and company ethic. In October a knitting workshop took place in Jordan in which about 40 women attended. This type of collaboration is an ideal of globalism and though it would be amazing to have a company like this in all the department stores around the world, the beauty of this group is very much in its small, accessible and grounded nature.

Take a look online: www.gudrunoggudrun.com